Monday, February 27, 2012

Stone Door - Part 1

After taking many wooden stairs down into the gorge, walking beside and close to Laurel Falls, and then circling back to the Ranger Station on a combination stairs and dirt trail, LC and Jamie and I finally headed down trail towards Stone Door.
I was surprised to see the paved trail.
A new addition since the last time I traveled this way and I wondered just how far the pavement went.
Did it go all the way to Stone Door?..............
The weather on this day could only be described as perfect.
Endless blue sky and never-ending sun.
Temperatures that were cool and dry.
It was a perfect day to be outside and in the mountains, and time and again throughout our wanderings the other day I was thankful to be in the place we were, spending time together in the very beautiful.
I stopped briefly when I saw this tree standing silently among the leaf-bare hardwoods.
There are black bears throughout the right third of Tennessee and I took the ravaged tree to be likely evidence of their presence here recently................
It turns out that this new paved trail only partially goes to Stone Door.
About 1/2 mile onto the trail we came to a wide overlook.
This place looked out over the flat mountains of the Cumberland as far as the eye could see.
An endless circle of mountains, endless blue sky, millions of bare trees covering almost every surface of the hills and mountains in front of me...............
LC called them woolly-boogers.
I have no idea if that is really the name of this little furry guy who was crawling slowly across the dirt trail in front of us or not.
But he looks like something that will eventually and soon transform into some kind of moth or butterfly or some such thing.................
From the overlook all the way to Stone Door we three quiet adventurers walked on open dirt trail that was mostly flat until close to the end.
We were all three greatly enjoying the day and enjoying the knowledge that we were headed towards rugged and beautiful views and rock formations..............
One more sign of recent bear activity..............
Except for the brief stop at the overlook LC, James and I had been making steady progress along the trail until we came to this tree.
No leaves, only a couple of tiny branches at the top of it, much shorter than the tall and straight hardwood trees that dominated both sides of the trail, a winding three part trunk - I had no idea what this thing was but it was unique in a warped, weird, sci-fi, creepy kind of way.
Almost like a timber-filled living creature.
I know...........too many Stephen King novels growing up................
And this very unusual thing on the side of one tree.
It looked almost as though it was a large wart on the trunk of the tree.
Or the scar of the tree after some type of severe trauma................
When we finally reached our destination I took a moment to orient myself to this place.
Looking around me I mentally reviewed.
New signs that were not there the last time I visited.
Overlooks to the left of me.
Stone Door to the right.
Here I am, stuck in the middle with you (as the song goes).
We first went left, following a small trail filled with rocks and roots, that led down to a very large flat outcropping that reached out into the valley...............
LC held back and stayed with Jamie, while I walked out onto the large tabletop to take pictures.
When I was done it was LC's turn to head out and look out over beautiful.................
I spent a long time walking carefully throughout the tabletop, wandering over and around rock and tree, taking in the.views all around me.
At the end of the tabletop it just simply........ended.......a drop-off into nothingness.
Millions of trees covering multiple hills that was a beautiful scene on this day, but would be extraordinary when the trees are all finally green again..................
This crevice between the two tabletops drops down uninterrupted close to a thousand feet.............
A circle of rock outcroppings seen regularly near the top of the mountains surrounding us.
Layers of rock that are rugged and ancient.

A vast sea once covered much of what is now the southeastern United States. For millions of years, sediments accumulated on the seabed and became compressed into layers of sandstone, limestone, shale, and siltstone. Then, between 310 and 275 million years ago, as the African and North American continental plates slowly collided, these layers of rock were squeezed upward to form the Appalachian Mountains. To the west, that same squeeze and uplift created a huge plateau, or tableland, which has since been dissected by river valleys. That tableland is now known as the Allegheny Plateau in West Virginia and Pennsylvania, and as the Cumberland Plateau from eastern Kentucky south through central Tennessee and northeastern Alabama.
This young couple approached me and asked if I would take their picture together.
They had become engaged at this place in the past, and I happily obliged them while they stood a little too close to the edge for comfort and smiled for their picture............
They left soon afterwards and finally LC and James and I had this place to ourselves.
I stood on the hard flat rock surface and looked around me and felt alone but not lonely, and again (and again and again) realized that there is much beauty here in Tennessee................
When I was done I carefully maneuvered back to where my guy and my dog were waiting.
Grabbing Jamie's leash it was my Mountain Boys' turn to explore................
Jamie first stood and then sat, watching intently the entire time as LC walked the tabletop.
There were too many drop-offs, too many crevices, too many places for unsuspecting puppies to get themselves into trouble.
She wanted to go, but instead silently sat watching and waiting for the return of her human.............
As with our hike at Fiery Gizzard Trail just a few days before, this outing was turning into a joyful excursion.
We headed back up the trail and continued on to Stone Door...............

Sunday, February 26, 2012

Laurel Falls

The weather has been truly amazing for the past few days.
Late last week it was sunny and 72 degrees.
The past couple of days have been equally beautiful, equally sunny, still with endless blue skies only welcomingly cooler.
Yesterday LC and I got up, looked at the blue sky outside, saw that the temperature was about 35 degrees but was supposed to struggle to reach 50, and knew that we had to spend  some time exploring outside.
As we were walking yesterday in a magical world in the mountains it was about 45 degrees and I was reminded again that this temperature is so much better for me than 72.
Cool always feels better than hot
Scandinavian by birth and by temperament this was very welcome weather for me, and I gladly embraced it.
Now if only it would snow....
After putzing around the house for a couple of hours drinking coffee and checking emails and doing all the things one does on the weekend when they are not really in a hurry, we eventually gathered up our enthusiastic dog who (without us saying a word to her) had already sensed the upcoming adventure, loaded into the truck and headed up onto the mountain.
Headed for Stone Door.
There are a number of winding, steeply graded two lane highways that head up onto the Cumberland Plateau.
All of them are lined with dense hard wood forest.
Very few have areas where you can pull off the highway to look down over the valley and enjoy views of endless farm land, a series of mountains lining the distant landscape, multiple water towers showing the location of small towns.
Yesterday we happily found one of those hard-to-find pull-offs and I quickly snapped these pictures before continuing the climb higher.................
Two-lane, winding, switchback filled, tree lined, steep and climbing road leading up to the towns of Sewanee and Monteagle and Tracy City and other smaller communities.................
As we got closer to Stone Door I realized that it had been a few years since I was last there.
Somehow a lot of the roads approaching the park, the parking lot itself that was filled with vehicles, even the Ranger Station and adjoining other small park structures in the same area all felt strange to me.
I was surprised that none of it felt familiar.
I have been to Stone Door over the years for many reasons.
I rappelled here with a group many years ago.
Walked lengthy trails with two female team-mates also many years ago.
More recently LC and I walked to the door and then explored trails that were new to both of us a couple of years before I left for Juneau.
On that particular day the weather was horrible - grey and overcast and raining.
As we were walking down the rock steps of Stone Door on that day I looked down and saw three people walking up the steps and headed our way.
I did not pay attention to their faces but simply nodded a polite hello before by-passing them, concentrating more on not falling than three strangers.
Once we had awkwardly passed each other I heard one of them call back to me and LC asking if we were members of an adventure racing club. 
He specifically mentioned the club by name and I turned in surprise, to more closely look at the three.
Fellow adventure racers from Nashville as it turned out, and I came to know one of them very well in the year before I left for Alaska.
While my Mountain Boy spent some time inside the Ranger Station I wandered along the walk-way with my happy puppy, signed the form at the kiosk indicating the number in our party and the time we headed onto trails, and then looked closely at the map that was displayed on the back wall of the kiosk.............
I may not have had strong memories of the Ranger Station but I definitely and very clearly remembered this map.
It tells the story of the terrain.
There are portions of this place that are extreme and that is one of the major draws of this natural area.
But once you travel beyond the rock bluffs and walk beyond Stone Door the trails take on the familiar dirt-root-rock-up and down feel that is so common to trails in the Savage Gulf area.
I love this place.
About six weeks ago I walked part of the Savage with a group of strangers, all part of a Nashville based hiking group:
When we were done for the day some of the hikers made their way to Stone Door.
I elected to simply head for the house instead, wanting to see it but wanting to see it with my Mountain Boy............
For all the times I have been to Stone Door I have never been to Laurel Falls.
While waiting for LC I looked at the wooden signs posted close to the kiosk pointing the way to the falls in one direction and Stone Door in the opposite and when my Mountain Boy rejoined me and James we decided to first visit the falls.
They were located only a short walk away.
Down - and down - and down some more stairs...............
After heading down a whole lotta stairs I wondered if we would have to climb the same stairs back up and out of the gorge.
I hoped not. 
Jamie especially would have a tough time with them.
My first view of Laurel Falls..............
For the thousandth time I wondered how I had not realized when we lived in Tennessee before Juneau and before Wyoming, that this state is absolutely and completely filled with waterfalls.
I smiled as I took in this scene, happily relishing in the sight of beautiful...............
The small wooden overlook...............
After standing at the overlook for a few minutes we wandered down the short narrow trail and moved along large flat rocks close to the stream that fed the waterfall.
Until recently I had never stood right beside and at the very top of a waterfall.
In the past couple of months I have stood at the very top of a number of area falls.
Extremely exciting...............
A quiet stream picking up speed as it gets closer and closer to the crest of the falls..............
Walking along the edge of the stream we did indeed find another trail that circled up and back to the Ranger Station.
Some steps, but not as many as the way we had walked down into the gorge.............
And then quickly picking up a wide open trail that gradually moved us up and out..............
An unexpected and unplanned diversion where we found a beautiful waterfall.
On a beautiful, cool, sunny, endless blue sky day, the three of us began a quiet and wonderful adventure.
After arriving back at the Ranger Station we veered to the right this time, heading for Stone Door..............

All my life through, the new sights of Nature made me rejoice like a child.........Marie Curie